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Here’s a note I received from an acquaintance who has recently been in Nairobi, Kenya and is now in Zimbabwe. Both countries are currently experiencing social upheaval:

Welcome to Zimbabwe

This is the second time I’ve typed this general email to you all. The first time the electricity supply cut off just as I hit send. The thirty minutes I had been on line were charged at 250,000 dollars per minute. My hotel room costs 175 million dollars. At dinner this evening I was asked what I would like to drink. No matter what I had said the answer would have been the same “we only have tonic or ginger beer, would one of these be a suitable replacement?”. I have never been smile at, asked how I am, or had people go out of their way to make me feel comfortable as I have had in the last twelve hours. Welcome to Zimbabwe.

How I got here.

I arrived this morning having spent two days being trained in security and trauma first aid in Nairobi. My trainers were as well qualified as you could possibly get to teach this. One coordinated security for the British forces in Iraq for four years and designed and oversaw the disarmament processes in post-conflict Sierra Leone. The other has served as a medic for the Special Forces in Chechnya, Iraq, Afghanistan and now runs a private security consultancy firm. Both have probably been to most of the places in the world that even at the best of times most would avoid. The training was not light-hearted: we covered scenarios probably more applicable to those working in Darfur or Afghanistan rather than Zimbabwe. However it has made me far more confident to label myself as an aid worker.

Kenya

Nairobi seemed strangely calm when I was there. There were signs of the reports that are dominating TV screens: trucks full of IDPs and the belongings they have managed to grab, a heavy police and army presence both on the ground and in the air and the fact that many of our staff have been choosing to work from home or work hours that allow them to travel in the daylight.

Two MPs had been killed by the time I left the capital and the ‘dark-hours’ violence was continuing. However, criminal gangs have also started to join in, attempting to loot the University and murders have been committed to settle old scores and to boost street cred among peers. From taxi drivers to security professionals the general consensus is that there has been a sharp change in the nature of the fighting from political motivation. Our last night was spent in the local ex-pat haunt, eating luxury food, watching people salsa dance on the dance floor and now and again acknowledging the news that was feeding on to the few TV screens. Welcome to the surreal reality of aid work.

Supermarkets

I was taken to see a supermarket today to help induct me into my new lifestyle. Although a lot of the shelves are empty there is enough available to live on if you have the required funds. Prices change week to week as does the range of supplies that are available. However, there is a Nando’s near my new residence, a Lebanese restaurant, lots of Italian café bars and a number of Whimpy restaurants, which could always prove useful.

Overall

I’m generally just really happy to be here and to have felt so nicely surprised by the welcome I have received. Next week I start my two-week induction in the office. They have internet there so I promise that no more general emails will be sent. It would be appreciated if no comments about politics could be made in any replies.